1968 ford mustang for sale by owner - Depew, NY - craigslist (2024)

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I have my pet project 1968 mustang "COUPE" available. I truly hate to let this one go but priority's must prevail.

PLEASE READ THIS AD CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU ASK QUESTIONS!!!
SEE NOTE #3 BELOW

NOTES: Serious buyers only, no window shoppers or tire kickers and definitely no low ballers!!!

1. If you don't have the cash to complete this transaction then please don't waste your/my time. (This vehicle sold twice but the buyers never took possession due to not being able to complete the funding transaction)

2. If you don't know / understand the value of these classic vehicles please don't bother me with insults, nasty remarks or like kind comments. Nobody appreciates this behavior.

3. You must CALL (do NOT text for pricing) me only if your a serious buyer to discuss a purchase price. I will NOT respond to texts that ask this question. No exceptions!!! Please be POLITE and CORDIAL when you call.

If your not willing to make the call then please don't inquire at all i.e text / emails.
There will be NO EXCEPTIONS!!!

These items include the following:

1. Original front sway bar,
2. Original 14" wheels from this vehicle. Wheels and tires have been upgraded from 14" to P225/70R15 on all for
3. Original 3.0 OPEN rear differential.
4. Original factory steering wheel (looks like new)
5. Original 14" OEM GT style rims with Dog dish hubcaps.
6. Original interior components i.e steering wheel, seats, belts, door panels, dash components (new pad), door handles,
etc all in good /very good condition. Items missing include: carpeting, headliner, rear deck interior covering.
7. Original OEM glass (front &rear) with stamped CARLITE in good condition.
8. Original OEM chrome sections, in very good condition.

Please note that every word of this description is true and accurate, no B.S here!!!

Serious buyers are welcome to come inspect this vehicle personally before you decide to purchase. We can put this up on our lift if you like so you can see for yourself the underside of the vehicle as well. IF your only window shopping with pipe dreams of owning one of these classic muscle cars and dont have the funds to buy, please don't waste my time.

Here is some history on the vehicle: The car is authentic as I do have the Marti report to verify this vehicle. I also should mention this vehicle is a LOW numbers car i.e 1 of 238 produced. See marti report. The vehicle is HIGHLY OPTIONED as well. This is an "early" (February 13th) built vehicle per the Marti report.

I have the Title in hand, its CLEAR! Title indicated the vehicle was and has been life long from California until the time I purchased the vehicle several years ago. Its been sitting in my shop ever since.

ALL the vin tags match the vehicle i.e dash, door tag and the inner fender well stamped numbers. ALL matching.

The car has 51k original miles on it. Its was sitting in a warehouse for 30 years before I purchased it. The second owner was an ex FBI agent (i'm told) and it sat in his collection in California. Yes the car spent is entire life (except the last few years sitting in my warehouse) in the state of California. the body is rust free. even the underside is clean. The body was taken down to bare metal and primed/sealed by the previous owner. The body is pretty clean and straight, panel alignments are the way they are supposed to look . All sheet metal is original to the vehicle, factory OEM sheet metal. (No replacement panels installed)

The torque boxes and frame rails, floors pans, quarter panels etc, etc are all SOLID. The passenger side floor did have some very minor surface rust forming from a leak in the heater core, I had this area sand blasted and treated with POR-15 to assure this will never rust again.

The undersides of the dash vent inlets are also solid.

I have the original glass stamped with the "Carlite" logo (Tinted), Both bumpers (re-chromed) and almost all of the interior except the carpet and a few minor items. The interior is a deep red / burgundy color.

Engine - The engine is an "S" code 390 GT motor with less then 51,995k on the odometer. If your not familiar with the GT version, this is a 390 engine but has the 428Cj valve train components thus this engine breathes far better than a plain stock 390 engine.

Now, I'm very skeptical minded individual so I had the shop tore the motor down to the short block to verify the interior condition. I'm glad to report I was impressed with the cylinder walls, as I can still see the light hone marks clearly. The cam lobes, lifters and the crank journals and bearings were all in excellent condition as well. Compression was excellent on "ALL" cylinders. I have pics to support this claim.

The heads look very good, nice thumb print remaining. Valve seats look great, no depressed valves.
The crank and bearings looked excellent.
The cam and lifters also in excellent condition. There was no evidence of wear and tear (Abuse) anywhere on these components. I have pics of the interior of the motor to authenticate my claims.

I noticed that during the work being done the motor is not the original motor to the vehicle but is dated a few months past the actual production date. This tells me its highly likely the motor is a "FACTORY/DEALER warranty replacement. I have seen / read of this occurrence in the past so I know its very plausible.

The carb (Motorcraft) is factory and been rebuilt last fall after I put the vehicle in my shop storage.
Update: This carburetor seems to be having issue with leaking and hard starting, so I contacted Holley directly and spoke to their technical support team to determine the correct carb for this particular application. As it turned out the OEM carb was not correct for this vehicle, so I purchased a brand new one i.e Holley 600CFM 4 Barrell which is correct for this vehicle.

I have now installed this carb onto the vehicle. I set the fuel bowl levels and adjusted the jets to what I think is the proper levels however I would recommend that you have them re-adjusted just to be sure they are correct. (Im not a carb skilled technician).

I also cleared out the old fuel from the tank and lines before I ran the engine to be sure I didn't contaminate the new carb with old gasoline. I added 5 gallons of fresh gas (87) which should probably be upgraded to 93 for the best running performance of this engine.

The engine now starts right up and runs nice again. Probably run a bit smoother with the higher-octane fuel.

The engine compartment does have the factory "export" brace bars and I added a chromed monte Carlo bar to further stiffen up the front end.

Heat / cooling system - The radiator ( triple core copper) is new and so is the heater core, hoses, etc. The entire system was torn out and any evidence of even the slightest issue was repaired or replaced. New gaskets, hoses and heater core installed.

Thermostat was replaced with 160 degree (New) to keep the engine running cooler during hot summer months.

Further I replaced the fan blade setup with a slightly larger and more blades (7 blades) for additional cooling ability. This was a package offered by Ford back in the day. The motor runs nice and cool, no issues of overheating.

Battery is a new heavy duty battery with new terminals and cables.

Transmission - The transmission is a 4 speed top loader with hurst shifter. The mechanics told me during the motor work that this was making some noise when the car was running (Car was on a lift). So, I had them remove the trans and inspect the inside components. There was wear on the reverse idler gear so I had them complete a total rebuild, install a new throughout bearing, inspect the 11" pressure pate and clutch disc before everything was re-installed. All items are in like new condition.

Driveshaft - The driveshaft is brand new as well as the U joints.

Rear end - The rear diff was removed and I had a 3:50 POSI unit built and installed.

Tires are brand new all the way around. Tires have been upgraded from the original 14" to P225/70R 15 on all four corners. Mag style rims are new also. I also have the original 14" GT style rims from this vehicle as well.

New disc brakes on front, pads on rear. Entire braking system was rebuilt. System was bled through as well. They work
very well.

Electrical system - I went thru the entire system to check for damage and have found none. The system is in good working order and everything works as it should. I did install LED lamps in most of the light sockets for load reductions on the system.

The front anti sway bar has been upsized for better front end sway control. I still have the original one if you prefer to go back to original.

The Dual exhaust system appears to be original to the vehicle. its in good working order as well.

The dash board assembly is totally reconditioned / new. This system does have the factory tachometer as well as the clock and GT equipment group dash lighting. I had the speedometer and tachometer sent out to have it tested and calibrated for accuracy by "Tachman" in N. Carolina. Still in the plastic wrapping for protection.
The entire dash assembly is ready to install.

I have a new dash board for this as well (burgundy) which is still in the box.

The interior has both upper and lower consoles, seat belts plus shoulder straps. Door panels are deluxe style

Gas tank is new also. I still have the original tank as well. You will need to transfer the sending unit from the old tank to the new tank yet.

I think I can say that after having 40 years experience with these vehicles ( I have had many) I have a good understanding of the issues that usually come up on the mustang, I went thru every system or function on this vehicle with close attention to detail to be sure I have no problems later down the road. You can be confident in this vehicle that the repairs were done correctly by long time professionals who know these vehicles inside and out.

What remains to date to finish this vehicle is the following:
- install new headliner
- Re-install glass windshields, chrome trims.
- Paint and prep work
- Re-install exterior components i.e bumpers, lights, trim etc.
- Re-install interior seats carpet, panels, belts, etc.

I have the seats, premium door panels, door handles, window cranks, steering wheel, belts, lights, floor and overhead consoles, windshields, bumpers and all glass (Tinted OEM), etc (all original OEM pieces to vehicle)

I have new dashboard assembly and bumpers as well.

I'm sure I missed something here so If you have any questions please call (Tim) at show contact info.

These particular vehicles , IF you can find one have now reached over the 65 k mark. I believe given the work done and current status of this vehicle that the asking price is would be VERY reasonable.

I have tons of pics available for those with SERIOUS interest so let me know what you would like to see (leave a number where I can text them to). IF your just window shopping please move on!

NOTES:

1. Please review this information again BEFORE you ask questions!!!
2. Reminder: do NOT text for price, you must CALL to discuss. NO EXCEPTIONS!
2. DON'T ask stupid questions like "how low will I go?" You WILL be blocked for this question!
Trust me I'm not desperate to sell this particular vehicle!
3. I'm NOT interested in low ball offers.
4. I DONT take payments!
5. I'm NOT interested in trades!
6. I DON'T need help selling!
7. NO tire kickers, only SERIOUS buyers with real cash. Nobody likes having their time wasted.

1968 ford mustang for sale by owner - Depew, NY - craigslist (2024)

FAQs

How much is a 1968 Mustang worth today? ›

Vehicle Valuation Analysis
EnginesMedian Sale
390 CID | 325 HP$25,300
428 CID | 335 HP$82,000
390 CID | 280 HP$42,600
200 CID | 115 HP$12,625
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How rare is a 1968 Mustang? ›

Production dropped to 317,148 from 472,121, thanks to a 60-day strike between September and November, and the model slipped from second place to seventh in domestic production. Hardtops remained the most popular model with 249,447 sold, followed by 42,325 fastbacks and 25,376 convertibles.

What is special about a 1968 Mustang? ›

Besides the fact that they were available in many styles, some of the changes in the '68 production year were redesigned side scoops, chrome trimmed wheel well molding and rocker panels, side marker lights, a rear mounted antenna, many new cooling features and new quarter turn hood fasteners.

What year had the best Mustangs? ›

What are the Best Mustangs of all Time?
  • 1965 Ford Shelby GT350. Considered by many to be not only the top Mustang of all time, but also one of the top sports cars of all time, the classic and timeless 1965 Ford Shelby GT350 trumps all. ...
  • 2018 Ford Shelby GT350. ...
  • 1969 Ford Mustang Boss 302/351/429.

Is an old Mustang a good investment? ›

Overall, classic Mustangs are a strong investment. Classic car values increase over time, making them worthwhile purchases.

What year is the most valuable Ford Mustang? ›

First Generation (1965–73): 1969–70 Boss Mustang 429

Let's start by acknowledging the omission here: The most valuable Mustang from the first generation—or any generation, for that matter—is the 1965 Shelby GT350R, which currently has an average condition #2 value of $898,000.

What was the most popular color of Mustangs in 1968? ›

Red is the most popular shade, picked almost one-third of the time. It is followed by blue, white, black, and silver. Though Wimbledon White is often painted over, it is also occasionally picked as a repaint shade.

What engine came in a 1968 Mustang? ›

1967–1968
Mustang 1967–1968
Engine200 cu in (3.3 L) Thriftpower I6 289 cu in (4.7 L) small block V8 302 cu in (4.9 L) small block V8 390 cu in (6.4 L) FE V8 427 cu in (7.0 L) FE HiPo V8 428 cu in (7.0 L) Cobra Jet V8
Transmission3-speed manual 4-speed manual 3-speed automatic
Dimensions
Wheelbase108 in (2,743 mm)
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What is the difference between a 1969 and a 1968 Mustang? ›

1969 Mustangs are larger than 1968 Mustangs in every dimension except for two: The wheelbase stayed the same and the height was lowered. The Mustang's side panels changed from concave to convex in 1969. This drastically affected the Mustang's body lines and gave it a new look.

How many 1968 Mustangs are there? ›

1968 Mustang Technical Data
Production Numbers
Convertible, standard22,037
Fastback, deluxe7,661
Fastback, deluxe, bench seat256
Total317,404
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What year Mustang to stay away from? ›

FAQs: Ford Mustang Years to Avoid

We advise keeping away from the 2006, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2015, and 2016 selections.

What is the best year for a Mustang to restore? ›

The 1965-1970 model of Mustang is the premium option for first-time restoration due to their mass production. Because of their mass production, there are plenty of them to go around for restoration projects.

What is the best engine for a Mustang? ›

If you're looking for a reliable engine that can deliver excellent performance, the Ford 302 small block or Ford 351 Windsor are great options. If you're looking for a high-performance engine that can deliver raw power and acceleration, the Ford 390 FE big block or Ford 428 Cobra Jet are excellent choices.

How much was a 1968 Mustang new? ›

Mustang Values by Year
Year / Model / TrimBase MSRPAdj. for Inflation
1968 Mustang Hardtop$2,707$23,749
1968 Mustang Fastback$2,818$24,723
1968 Mustang Convertible$2,920$25,618
1968 Mustang GT Hardtop$2,854$25,039
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May 23, 2024

How much is a 1968 Shelby Mustang worth? ›

Vehicle Valuation Analysis
BodystylesMedian Sale
Convertible$132,000
Coupe$95,700

What makes a 1968 Mustang a California special? ›

In production form, the GT/CS wore a fiberglass decklid with an integrated spoiler (a Shelby convertible piece), fiberglass rear-quarter extensions, sequential '65 Thunderbird taillights (identical to the '68 Shelby units), a blacked-out grille (minus Mustang identification), a pop-off gas cap, fiberglass sidescoops, ...

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